To start, let me just say that virtually any DSLR or mirrorless camera body is great, and you’ll likely come home with stunning shots. Keep in mind that they can get pricey, because the technology inside them to “have your cake and eat it too” is pretty advanced… However, if you’re planning on purchasing a lens specifically for photographing the lights, here are a few recommendations. So, if you have an assortment of lenses, I personally recommend you bring the widest lens you have as your #1 pick. It just simple doesn’t have the same effect, does it? A 50mm version of the same shot as above looks like this… You need to have the ability to get a lot of the scene in your photo. a 50mm 1.4, you really ought to go with the 18-55mm. Thus, if you’re faced with the decision between a “normal” wide angle lens, like an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 vs. These just aren’t wide enough to get the full sky, let alone neat things in the foreground to give the shot context (like an igloo or inukshuk or people). While this is helpful in getting the best photos possible, you don’t want to favor those apertures if it means you have to go with a 50mm or 85mm lens. You’ll often hear people saying that you need a fast lens…that is, one with a very wide maximum aperture, like f/2.8 or even f/1.4. Generally speaking, you should prioritize the angle of the lens vs. However, if you have a camera with interchangeable lenses (or you’re thinking about upgrading to one), this section is important for which lens is right for the job. If you do have a point and shoot, and it’s passed the test from the above section – you’re all set! No need to think much further. This is a deal breaker!īe sure to do some test shots at home (and at night) when evaluating whether you’re camera’s cut out for the job. However, the camera could not do both at the same time. Instead, it’s your camera’s ability to shoot at long exposures while at a high ISO.Īs a photo guide for Northern Lights Photo Expeditions, I’ve unfortunately seen some guests come with cameras that could shoot at long exposures, up to 30 seconds, and they could also get to high ISOs, 1600, and even 3200. While having a good quality lens is helpful, that’s usually not the limiting factor. While actually getting the photo can be a little complicated (and I’ve outlined proper techniques HERE), determining if your camera can photograph them isn’t difficult at all. If you plan on traveling to a place for optimal viewing of the Northern Lights and plan to photograph them (I’m quite partial to Churchill, Canada), you’ll need to think about your camera equipment, as not all cameras have the capabilities to photograph the aurora.
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